彩云之南的那片红霞——西双版纳游记
作:渝陇之子
云南省的名字颇具诗情画意，采拮彩云之南的字义。的确，那是一方具有诗情画意的天地，是一片美丽神奇的土地。
彩云下面有一片红土地，就像一片红霞，格外多彩绚丽，那就是闻名世界的西双版纳。
西双版纳傣族语的意思是指这儿有十二个坝子（西双是十二的意思，版纳是坝子的意思），恰好，当年这儿正好有十二个兄弟民族和谐生活在这里。后来，由于党和国家对少数民族的重视，关心，经过发现和科学考证，于七十年代末又确立了中国最年轻的一个民族——基洛族。于是，西双版纳现在得以有了十三个兄弟民族的家园，中华民族有了五十六个民族的大家庭。
西双版纳是云南省的一个地级州，首府是景洪。景洪旧称车里，后原袭景咏、景陇到现在称谓景洪。景洪是黎明之城的意思。单就这个城市的名字就让人回味在光明幸福，年轻朝气、美丽繁荣的意境里。
六月初，正是西双版纳气候最适宜的时候，气温不冷不热，十分舒适，晚上八点，我像驾乘晚霞的红云一般乘飞机来到了西双版纳。当晚住进了颇具民族风情四星级的傣园宾馆。傣园宾馆面积颇大，占地约三百多亩地，绿树婆娑，鲜花簇拥，池堰水波荡漾，傣式独栋别墅和楼房镶嵌在绿色生态园中，就像绿色宝石和红色玛瑙雕刻组合的艺术品一般让你赏心悦目，流连忘返。
有许多像傣园一样美丽的园林点缀景洪，有无数热带树木和花丛装扮景洪，有各具民族特色的建筑物矗立在街道两旁，蜿蜒的澜沧江穿城而过，得天独厚的地理和人文环境让景洪城市显得十分的端庄秀美。不用庞大广告费用的宣传，不用巧言令色的说教，你就会感到自己正置身于一座旅游之城，森林之城，鲜花之城，宜居之城，生态环保之城。
西双版纳以热带雨林著称，旅游资源十分丰富。在景洪周边分布有莽莽苍苍的热带雨林，秀丽悦动的澜沧江，新奇神秘的基诺族山寨，古老而有传奇色彩的克木族山林村庄，令人神往的野象谷，以举办泼水节欢快活动著名的傣家风情园，闻名东南亚富丽堂皇的孟泐大佛寺等。所以，通常游玩景洪就算是游玩了西双版纳。
风景是有生命的，风景是由许许多多的生命体组合而成的。摇曳的树木，芬芳的鲜花，芳凄的小草，流淌的大江溪流，高飞的鸿雁，奔跑的野兽，还有历经千万年仍然还在增长升高的大山。但所有的风景生命组合体中，人是风景中最有生气和最生动的主体。在千般美，万般秀的风景中，无论你走到世界各地，只有人，才能给风景烙上特色的印迹，正是由于各色人种的特点，各族人民的人文特点所创造出的生活氛围和气息，建筑风格和文化艺术，才能让你感到你正置身于万花筒般的活生生的风景区域中。所以，无论在国外或在少数民族地区旅游，无论我的摄影焦点所对，还是我的笔融所取，首要的一定是人，是创造了当地历史和文化的当地人。否则还有什么生动和特点可言。
西双版纳有十三个民族，其中人口最多的是傣族，人口最少的是基诺族，古老而有传奇色彩的是克木族，所以，他们分别进入了我的视野。
清晨，金色的阳光透过窗户以温热的关怀把我从睡梦中唤醒，躺在床上我定下了当天去游览澜沧江和热带雨林，基洛族山寨的计划。经过一夜的休息，起床后感觉神清气爽。对西双版纳的大自然风光的向往像高速火车的动力那样催促着我，吃过早餐后，赶紧乘车出发了。汽车沿着澜沧江在公路上轻快地跑起来，澜沧江两岸风景绮丽，江水湍流清澈，两岸青山连绵，竹林、芭蕉林和橡胶林交相延绵陪伴着江水向南流去，汇流成湄公河，流经缅甸、老挝、柬埔寨、越南等国，像母亲河一样哺育着两岸数国的人民，也成为连接中国人民与东南亚各国人民友谊的纽带。当年陈毅元帅曾在此写下了：“我住江之头，君住江之尾，日日思君不见君，同饮一水、、、、、、。” 热情歌颂中国与东南亚各国友谊的诗篇。在澜沧江的接引下，一个多小时的车程我们来到了热带雨林风景区。
热带雨林并不是如我先前所想象是分布在一片河谷或平原上的树林，而是披盖在崇山峻岭上的热带树木和藤蔓植被。树木藤蔓之稠密，让你一进入林中就能感觉到密不透风，压缩气压的闷热感扑面而来，树木藤蔓不仅很多，许多树种还很珍稀。树木和藤蔓交相成趣，千奇百状，有些植物名和树名以前还闻所未闻。在登山前进的路上，我们见识了古藤三宝，苍白秤钩树，多花白头树，高榕树，割舌树，扁担树，夫妻树，能见血封喉的箭毒树，以及夏饮三菊，蟒蛇藤等少见的树木和藤曼。我们汗流浃背的前行，像走在密封的笼罐中，忽然间，像猿猴一样敏捷的身形一个接一个吼叫着从高高的树梢上一闪而过地窜到了另外一棵树上，像空中飞人一般，正当有些人感到惊疑不定之时，导游告诉游人，这是克木族人利用藤条飘荡的技艺来表达欢迎客人的一种特有的方式，这才让游人们放下心来，心里特别佩服克木族人的攀沿技能。克木族民族有数千年的历史，人口数万人，有自己的语言，但无文字，喜欢跳舞，信奉树神，喜好住在树上，以打猎为生。他们以黑为美，除了皮肤被太阳晒得黝黑发亮外，还用熬黑的树枝汁涂抹在牙齿，眼眶，面部等地方。
穿过大黑谷，桫椤谷，树冠空中走廊，我们来到了一个克木族人的村寨。好客的克木族人手牵着手把我们迎进寨子里，我们在一起品赏了他们经常吃的一些不知名的树叶，开始有些酸涩，味淡后有些芳香，咽下后有生津止渴之感。我们还同克木族人跳起了欢快的锅庄舞。虽然语言不通，但友好的笑意和肢体语言已让我们感到了兄弟般的友好情谊。
汗湿淋淋的从热带雨林出来，如同经历了绿色环保的桑拿浴一般。我们马不停蹄地赶往基诺族山寨，深秋的小雨一路上不断轻柔地洗涤着我们身上的汗液，身上顿感清凉惬意。为我们做导游的是一位基诺族小姑娘，娇小的身材，穿着民族服饰的衣裳，显得利索精干，初中毕业后在此做导游已经三年。她的普通话说得还比较标准，和善而开朗，与游客相处得很融洽。基诺族习居山林，世代以种植农作物和普尔茶为生，没有自己的文字，信奉天神。虽然他们以天神后代自居，但据历史考证，主要与诸葛亮七擒孟获征战后留居当地的将士后代有关联。说起基诺族的发现还有段佳话流传。七十年代中期县政府派遣工作组去农村蹲点工作，住在基诺山寨的三人工作组中有个学历史的大学生发现这个山寨的人与周围其他民族的文化、习俗等风情完全不一样，遂逐级报告上至国家引起重视，经国家工作组长期调查研究比对，最后终于确定为一个单独的民族，使我们国家的民族种类确认为五十六个民族。当时人口仅为一万多人，经过近三十年国家的关心爱护，现在人口已增长到了二万多人。基诺山寨地处半山腰上，原来与外界相通的只有一条狭窄的泥泞小道，经国家支持，现在已建有一条便捷式水泥路，原来破败不堪的草屋也换成了结实的大木屋。国家领导人邓小平、江泽民、胡景涛、朱镕基、温家宝等都先后来到基诺山寨关心全国最小民族兄弟的发展。我们顺着山梁来到一个有十多户人家居住的平坝，仔细看了基诺族人生活的图片介绍，观看了他们独具民俗的婚庆和歌舞表演，很有生活气息，表现了他们欢快的生活和性格特点。品赏了他们的民食，糯米粑和腌制的猪肉味道还不错，其它的生食冷盘就不太适应了，口味虽然不太适合，毕竟都是绿色蔬菜，见多食多不正是出来的目的吗？所以，最终盘中餐都被我全消灭掉了。出得门来，转过一个山坳，见满山的普尔茶树迎风摇曳，沿山脊延绵到天边，就像是绿色的天梯，浩瀚悠长。导游不失时机的告诉我们，这儿自产的普尔茶是云南最好，最正宗的，所以游客们纷纷买上几饼，或十余饼普尔茶准备带回家中，或送人，或自饮。下山的路上我在细品基诺族人的生活与性格特点，感觉与普尔茶有十分相近的地方，原生态的生长，大自然的骄子，独特而具有咬定大山不放松的坚韧不拔的品质。走出基诺族山寨，中华大家庭中最小的民族就这样走进了我的视野，定格在我心中。
下午，乘游览之兴，我们还游览了野象谷和孟泐大佛寺，都是不可多得的旅游精品景观，前者让人欢乐而精神放松，后者让人虔诚而精神皈依佛善。在以傣族人口为主的西双版纳，与缅甸和泰国一样，佛教绝对是最受信奉的，佛教寺院建筑的样式绝对是很有自身特色的，是以白色和鎏金为主色调的宏伟建筑，规模之大，数量之多，让你感受到正身处佛国之中。过去对傣族的了解仅限于在电影和电视节目中，他们的泼水节闻名于世，他们的习俗，他们的生活特点，他们的风情都让我在当天的夜色中对月冥想，于是，钟情着第二天天一亮赶快去傣族村寨的游访。
傣族是一个非常热情、善良、好客的民族。走在景洪的街上或步入商店，你会被亲切的“卯多哩”（对男士的尊称即帅哥。），“邵多哩”（对女士的尊称即美女）的称呼所感染，能感觉到是发自他们内心的热情和真诚。傣族分干汉傣和水傣，西双版纳以汉傣为主，居住在泰国的以水傣为主，这是我第二天去傣族村寨的路上司机告诉我的。我们去的傣族村寨叫曼俄村，曼俄村位于景洪市区的东北部，紧挨公路，坐落在澜沧江边，交通便利，自然条件较好，具有很强的旅游地理优势，人们有很强的旅游经济意识。村里成立了旅游办公室，把村里的旅游资源统一整合对外开放。每天的客人由旅游办公室轮流安排到村民的家里。于是，我被安排到了玉蓉家。玉蓉是一位二十八、九的年轻村妇。中等个头，眉目清秀，身材丰满，穿着傣族的民族服饰典雅大方。
进入村寨的路上见到田舍都是独栋的木制楼房，统一都为二层。底层为十多根或数十根木柱伫立，没有隔档，主要为饲养牲畜和存放农机具的地方。二层是由木柱支撑的住房。傣族农村有句话：“富不富，数木柱”，木柱多的房子面积就越大，说明家庭殷实富足。鸡、鸭、鹅、狗在房舍院里，屋后空地上休闲地溜达，给人以安静祥和一派田园风光的享受。
进得玉蓉家里后方知傣族人无论家庭有多少人口，二楼每家都是一样的布局，一厅，一室、一厨、一台。即一间宽大的客厅，一间较大的卧室，一间厨房，一个露台。厕所设在底层。因为傣族人有和汉族完全不一样的婚俗讲究，他们是男嫁女娶。男子都须嫁到女方家入赘。无论家里住几辈的人，无论家里娶了多少女婿，都得住在一个通敞的卧室，万万不能用砖木隔起来，否则就会隔里、隔外、隔心，造成一家人不和蔼，不团结。晚上各自可以用软帘布隔起来。所以他们的房屋布局都只有一个卧室，一家之主都是家里最长辈的妇女。男嫁女娶，这是我头一次见识，当时还真让我感到了稀奇。傣族男的要想嫁到女方是需要经历一段奋斗考验过程的。从谈恋爱的那天起，须得白天在女方家不计报酬的白干三年活，晚上回自家去住，三年里还得全力备办嫁妆。四大银件还必须由男子亲手打造，即女方的银头饰，银腰带，银手镯，银项圈。打造的精巧程度能看出男方的聪明和技巧能力。举办婚礼时，还得陪嫁上千余棵橡胶树和像拖拉机之类的农机具嫁妆。所以玉蓉开玩笑似的对我说傣族人养儿子赔本，养女儿才赚钱呗。因为傣族人通常只有三种姓氏，高层贵族姓刀，中层贵族姓召，普通人家的女子都姓玉，男子都姓岩，没有像汉族人那样的传宗接代的思想，所以男嫁女娶才能流传下来。由于傣族人特有的婚俗和喜爱银制品，所以傣族人银质器物的能工巧匠很多，银制品非常精致漂亮，多数游客都会乘兴买上几件傣族银制艺术品作收藏或纪念。我们中一行人也挑选了银手镯、银筷子、银耳环等购入包中。在当前预期通胀比较突出的情况下，购买精美的银质艺术品，既有收藏审美价值，还有保值增值价值，促成了最近旅游者们购买量增加。在傣族人家中做客这是一种新的旅游创新模式，即深入，又有趣，还很丰富，两个多小时就在浑然不觉中度过去了。但是，游乐的高潮还在晚上的互动活动中。
当月亮银色光亮洒满榕树林下绿野草坪的时候，星星闪着晶亮的目光与傣式宫殿屋顶上蓝宝石睁开眼光相视会心欢笑的时候，我们参加了勐巴娜拉西艺术团组织的篝火晚会，主持人非常有激情，非常有经验，非常有艺术感染力和有风趣，有很强的组织协调能力和很大的魄力。在他有条不紊的组织指挥下，上千人的游客和数十位演员们围在通红的篝火周围融合在一起，在锣鼓节拍的伴奏下，跳起了十余种傣族舞蹈。当锣鼓音退去，悠扬欢快的乐曲声响起时，突然间水花怒放，飘落的水从天而降，我腾挪躲闪地跑跳着，仍然还是弄湿了全身，不服输的劲让你也端着水盆追逐泼水。那种情动，那种欢腾，那种热烈的场面真如大海潮涌一般，不拘老少和男女忘情地投入，这种万众一体的欢乐场景是一生中少有体验的。 泼水节是傣族人傣历新年举办的欢乐活动，通常在新历的四月份左右，意在洗去旧尘和邪恶，迎来新的生活、希望和吉祥。当年周恩来总理和陈毅副总理参加完印度尼西亚万隆会议归国途中参加了景洪的泼水节，受到万众的热烈欢迎。你要是没有亲自参加过傣家人的歌舞和泼水节，真是体验不到那种能歌善舞和豪爽的傣家生活性格的真情。
公众参与互动的活动和精品艺术欣赏结合的安排是傣家旅游成熟和科学精品旅游的标志性体现。
篝火晚会刚一结束，人们马上就能进入艺术宫观看艺术团的专业表演。勐巴娜拉西艺术团在国内久负盛名，演员阵容强大，服饰和布景富丽堂皇。在超级歌舞秀开场的引导下，把观众引入了“版纳神韵、孔雀吉祥、泼水欢歌、圣节祝福、一江春水”的艺术盛宴中。歌舞把西双版纳悠久的历史，各族人民的生活和风情，进入现代的发展状况都艺术再现地呈现在了观众们的面前。节目内容和形式给人以健康，向上的精神氛围，可以说给人以艺术美的享受，给人以艺术高度和感染力的强烈震撼。
夜风在棕榈树的摇曳中徐徐送爽，商店在华灯中顾客盈门，行人在宽敞的街道上熙熙攘攘。不打的回走在去宾馆的路上，就是要想观赏景洪美丽的夜色景象，就是想体验祖国百花园中各民族兄弟和谐相处，安宁幸福的生活。景洪的夜色多美啊，勾起我许许多多的联想。蒙古大草原的美丽夜色曾经让我的心奔驰豪放，大西北高山峡谷的朦胧夜色让我的心壮怀激荡。而今，景洪的静谧多彩的夜晚让我的心感受到军人保家卫国责任下和平幸福安详的满足和自豪。
几天的旅游生活，几天与当地少数民族人众的接触，让我的感情更加亲近融入当地的风情。当说起西双版纳这个地名时，我也很自然地跟当地人一样自豪的简略成了“版纳”什么什么的称谓了。“版纳”，多么亲近，美丽，简捷的名字，在我心中就是一片美丽的红霞。飘荡在西南边陲，飘荡在彩云之南的身旁，永远放散出迷人魅力的光芒。
2010.11.18
修改于2020.11.28.
【作者简介】朱云才，重庆市江津区人。中共党员。先后毕业于青海医学院医疗系、上海第二军医大学医院管理系、第四军医大学研究生部、中国人民大学EMBA 。历任卫生员、医师、主治医师、副主任医师、主任医师，内科主任、医务处主任、院长等职务，授大校军衔。中华医学会会员，中国医师协会会员。甘肃省作家协会会员。中国马家窑文化研究会副会长。20世纪90年代末开始文学写作，在国内多家报刊和出版社发表和出版文学作品一百多万字。出版有《随吟集》《行云留彩》《盛世飞歌》《走马行吟》等诗歌散文集。
The red glow in the south of colorful clouds
The son of Yu Long
The name of Yunnan Province is very poetic and picturesque, and the meaning of the word "south of colorful clouds" is adopted. Indeed, it is a poetic and picturesque world, a beautiful and magical land.
There is a piece of red earth under the colorful clouds, just like a piece of red clouds, especially colorful and gorgeous, that is Xishuangbanna, which is famous all over the world.
The Dai language in Xishuangbanna means that there are twelve Bazi here (Xishuang means twelve, Banna means Bazi). It happens that there were twelve brothers living here in harmony. Later, due to the party and the state's attention and concern for ethnic minorities, through discovery and scientific research, the youngest ethnic group in China, the jiluo nationality, was established in the late 1970s. As a result, Xishuangbanna is now able to have a home of 13 fraternal nations, and the Chinese nation has a big family of 56 ethnic groups.
Xishuangbanna is a prefecture level state in Yunnan Province, with Jinghong as its capital. Jinghong used to be called Cheli, after the original Jingyong, Jinglong, now called Jinghong. Jinghong means the city of dawn. The name of this city alone makes people remember in the bright and happy, young and vigorous, beautiful and prosperous artistic conception.
It's not comfortable to fly in shuangyun at the beginning of June. It's not suitable for me to fly in shuangyun at night. On that night, I stayed in the Dai Yuan Hotel with ethnic flavor. Dai Garden Hotel covers an area of more than 300 mu, with green trees, flowers, ponds and weirs. Dai style single family villas and buildings are inlaid in the green ecological park, just like the works of art combined with green gemstone and red agate carving, you can enjoy the sight and forget to return.
Jinghong is decorated with many beautiful gardens like Dai garden. There are countless tropical trees and flowers to decorate Jinghong. There are buildings with different ethnic characteristics standing on both sides of the street. The winding Lancang River passes through the city. The unique geographical and cultural environment makes Jinghong city very dignified and beautiful. You will feel that you are in a city of tourism, forest, flowers, livable and environmental protection without huge advertising expenses and persuasive preaching.
Xishuangbanna is famous for its tropical rain forest and rich in tourism resources. Around Jinghong, there are mang and green tropical rain forest, beautiful Lancang River, novel and mysterious Jinuo mountain village, ancient and legendary Kemu mountain village, fascinating Wild Elephant Valley, famous Dai Folk Custom garden for holding water splashing Festival, and famous Mengbi Grand Buddha Temple in Southeast Asia. Therefore, a visit to Jinghong is usually a visit to Xishuangbanna.
The scenery has life, and it is composed of many life bodies. Swaying trees, fragrant flowers, fragrant grass, flowing rivers and streams, flying wild geese, running wild animals, and mountains still growing after thousands of years. But among all the landscape life combinations, human is the most lively and vivid subject in the landscape. In all kinds of beautiful and beautiful scenery, no matter you go to all parts of the world, only people can brand the characteristic imprint on the landscape. It is precisely because of the characteristics of various ethnic groups and the humanistic characteristics of people of all ethnic groups, the living atmosphere and atmosphere, architectural style and culture and art created by the people of all ethnic groups can make you feel that you are in a kaleidoscope of living scenic areas. Therefore, whether I travel abroad or in ethnic minority areas, whether my photography focus or my writing style, the most important thing must be the people who have created the local history and culture. Otherwise, there is nothing vivid and characteristic.
There are 13 nationalities in Xishuangbanna, of which Dai is the most populous, Jinuo is the least populated, and Kemu is the ancient and legendary. Therefore, they have come into my view.
In the early morning, the golden sun through the window woke me up from my sleep with warm care. Lying in bed, I made a plan to visit the Lancang River and the tropical rain forest, the jiluo mountain village. After a night's rest, I feel refreshed after getting up. The yearning for the natural scenery of Xishuangbanna urged me like the power of the high-speed train. After having breakfast, I quickly set off by bus. Cars run briskly along the Lancang River on the highway. The scenery on both sides of the Lancang River is beautiful, the water is turbulent and clear, the green mountains on both sides are continuous, the bamboo forest, plantain forest and rubber forest flow southward along the river to form the Mekong River, which flows through Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and other countries. Like the mother river, it nourishes the people of several countries on both sides of the Strait and becomes a link between the Chinese people and the people The ties of friendship with the people of Southeast Asia. Marshal Chen Yi once wrote here: "I live at the head of the river, and you live at the end of the river. I miss you every day, but I don't see you. I drink the same water,,,,,,," A poem praising the friendship between China and Southeast Asian countries. Led by the Lancang River, we arrived at the tropical rain forest scenic spot after more than an hour's drive.
The rainforest is not a forest in a valley or plain, as I thought it was, but a tropical tree and vine vegetation that covers high mountains. Trees and vines are so dense that you can feel the air tight as soon as you enter the forest. There are not only a lot of trees and vines, but also many tree species are very rare. Trees and vines are very interesting. Some plant names and tree names have never been heard before. On the way to the mountaineering, we saw some rare trees and vines, such as the three treasures of ancient rattan, the pale Libra tree, the white headed tree, the tall banyan tree, the tongue cutting tree, the shoulder pole tree, the husband and wife tree, the curcuma tree, the summer drinking chrysanthemum, the python vine and other rare trees and vines. We were sweating, like walking in a sealed cage. Suddenly, we were as agile as an ape and roared one by one from the high treetops to another tree, like flying people in the air. When some people were in doubt, the guide told the visitors that this was the Kemu people's skill of cane floating to express their welcome to the guests This is a unique way for the tourists to relax and admire the climbing skills of the Kemu people. The Kemu nationality has a history of thousands of years. It has a population of tens of thousands of people. It has its own language, but it has no words. It likes to dance, believes in tree gods, likes to live in trees and lives on hunting. In addition to their skin being tanned by the sun, they also use boiling branch juice to smear on their teeth, eyes, faces and other places.
Through Dahei Valley, Alsophila Valley, canopy air corridor, we came to a village of Kemu people. The hospitable Kemu people welcomed us into the stockade hand in hand. Together, we tasted some unknown leaves that they often ate. At first, some of them were sour, and some of them were fragrant. After swallowing, we felt that they could produce fluid and quench thirst. We also danced a happy Guozhuang dance with the Kemu people. Although the language is not good, the friendly smile and body language have made us feel the brotherly friendship.
Sweating out of the rainforest, it's like going through a green sauna. We went to the Jinuo mountain village without stopping. The light rain in late autumn gently washed our sweat along the way, which made us feel cool and comfortable. The guide for us is a Jinuo girl, with a petite figure and clothes of national costume. She has been a tour guide for three years after graduating from junior high school. She speaks Mandarin quite standard, kind and cheerful, and gets along well with tourists. Jinuo People are accustomed to living in the mountains and forests. They have grown crops and Pu tea for generations. They have no written language of their own and believe in gods. Although they regarded themselves as descendants of gods, according to historical research, they were mainly related to the descendants of generals and soldiers who stayed in the local area after Zhuge Liang captured Menghuo seven times. Speaking of the discovery of Jinuo People, there is a good story about it. In the mid-1970s, the county government sent a working group to work in the countryside. Among the three members working group who lived in Jinuo mountain village, a history student found that the culture and customs of the people living in the Shanzhai were totally different from those of other ethnic groups around. Therefore, the report was sent to the state level by level to attract the attention of the state. After long-term investigation and comparison by the National Working Group, it was finally determined that he was a single citizen Ethnic groups, so that our country's ethnic groups identified as 56 ethnic groups. At that time, the population was only more than 10000. After nearly 30 years of national care and care, the population has now grown to more than 20000. Jinuo mountain village is located on the hillside. Originally, there was only a narrow muddy road connecting with the outside world. With the support of the state, a convenient cement road has been built, and the original dilapidated straw house has been replaced by a strong wooden house. Leaders such as Wen Jiabao, Hu Rongji Tao, and Jiang Zemin, who are the youngest brothers in China, have come to the capital successively. Along the ridge, we came to a Pingba where more than ten families lived. We took a close look at the pictures of Jinuo People's life and watched their unique folk wedding celebration and dance performances. We had a strong sense of life and showed their happy life and personality characteristics. After enjoying their folk food, glutinous rice cake and pickled pork taste good. Other cold dishes of raw food are not suitable. Although the taste is not suitable, they are all green vegetables. Isn't the purpose of eating more? So, in the end, I wiped out all the food on the plate. When you get out of the gate and turn around a mountain depression, you can see the tea trees all over the mountain swaying in the wind, stretching along the ridge to the horizon, just like a green ladder, vast and long. The tour guide did not miss the opportunity to tell us that the Pu tea produced here is the best and most authentic in Yunnan, so tourists have bought several cakes, or more than ten cakes, ready to take home, or send people, or drink by themselves. On the way down the mountain, I tasted the life and personality characteristics of Jino people. I felt that there was a very close place with PU tea. The growth of original ecology, the pride of nature, and the unique and indomitable quality of sticking to the mountain. Out of the Jinuo Shanzhai, the smallest ethnic group in the big family of China came into my field of vision and settled in my heart.
In the afternoon, we also visited Yexiang Valley and Mengbi Buddhist temple, which are rare tourist attractions. The former makes people happy and relaxed, while the latter makes people devout and convert to Buddhism. In Xishuangbanna, which is dominated by Dai people, Buddhism is definitely the most popular one like Myanmar and Thailand. The style of Buddhist temple buildings is absolutely unique. It is a grand building with white and gilding colors. The large scale and large number of buildings make you feel that you are in the Buddhist country. In the past, my understanding of Dai people was limited to movies and TV programs. Their water splashing festival was famous all over the world. Their customs, their life characteristics and their customs made me meditate on the moon in the night of that day. Therefore, I fell in love with the trip to Dai villages at daybreak the next day.
Dai is a very warm, kind and hospitable people. Walking in the streets of Jinghong or entering the shops, you will be cordially "maoduoli" (the honorific name for a man is handsome) "Shao Duoli" (the honorific name of a lady, that is, a beautiful woman) is affected by the address, and can feel the enthusiasm and sincerity from their hearts. Dai people are divided into Gan Han Dai and Shui Dai. Xishuangbanna is dominated by Han Dai, while those living in Thailand are mainly Shui Dai. This is what the driver told me on my way to Dai villages the next day. The Dai village we went to is called man'e village. Man'e village is located in the northeast of Jinghong City, close to the highway and beside the Lancang River. With convenient transportation and good natural conditions, it has a strong tourism geographical advantage and people have a strong sense of tourism economy. A tourism office has been set up in the village to integrate and open the tourism resources in the village. The daily guests are arranged in turn by the tourism office to the villagers' homes. So, I was arranged to Yurong's house. Yurong is a 28-9 young village woman. He is of medium height, with delicate eyebrows and plump figure. He is elegant and generous in Dai's national costume.
On the way to the village, I saw that the farmhouses were all single wooden buildings, all of which were of two floors. The ground floor is a place where more than ten or dozens of wooden pillars stand without barriers. It is mainly used for raising livestock and storing agricultural machinery. The second floor is a house supported by wooden pillars. There is a saying in Dai's rural areas: "if you are rich or not, count the wooden pillars". The larger the area of houses with more wooden pillars, the richer the family is. Chickens, ducks, geese and dogs stroll leisurely in the courtyard and the open space behind the house, giving people the enjoyment of quiet and peaceful idyllic scenery.
No matter how many people there are in the family, every family on the second floor has the same layout, one hall, one room, one kitchen and one set. That is a spacious living room, a larger bedroom, a kitchen, a terrace. The toilet is on the ground floor. Because Dai people have different marriage customs from Han people, they marry men and women. All men have to marry their wives. No matter how many generations of people live in the family, no matter how many sons-in-law they have married, they have to live in an open bedroom. They must not be separated by bricks or trees, or they will be separated from each other inside, outside, or from the heart, resulting in the family not being kind and United. At night, they can be separated by soft curtain. So their house layout has only one bedroom, and the head of the family is the oldest woman in the family. It was the first time for me to see a man marry a woman. It really surprised me at that time. Dai men need to go through a period of struggle to get married to their wives. From the day of falling in love, he had to work in the woman's house for three years without pay during the day, return to his own home at night, and prepare for the dowry for three years. The four pieces of silver must also be made by men themselves, namely the woman's silver headdress, silver belt, silver bracelet and silver collar. The degree of dexterity can be seen in the man's intelligence and skills. At the wedding ceremony, there are more than 1000 rubber trees and farm implements like tractors. So Yurong jokingly told me that Dai people lose money by raising their sons, and only by raising their daughters can they make money. Because the Dai people usually have only three surnames, the high-level aristocrats surname Dao, the middle-level aristocrats surname Zhao. The women in ordinary families are surnamed Yu, and the men are surnamed Yan. They do not have the idea of inheriting the family as the Han people do. Therefore, it can be passed down that men marry women. Due to the Dai People's unique marriage customs and love of silver products, there are many skilled craftsmen of the Dai People's silver wares. The silver products are very exquisite and beautiful. Most tourists will take the opportunity to buy a few Dai silver works of art for collection or commemoration. We also selected silver bracelets, silver chopsticks, silver ear rings and so on. In the current situation of expected inflation, the purchase of fine silver art has not only the aesthetic value of collection, but also the value of maintaining and increasing value, which has contributed to the increase of tourists' purchase recently. Being a guest in Dai's family is a new tourism innovation mode, which is deep, interesting and rich. More than two hours passed without realizing it. However, the climax of amusement is still in the interactive activities at night.
When the moon was shining silver on the green lawn under the banyan trees, the twinkling stars and the sapphires on the roof of Dai style palaces opened their eyes. When we were laughing, we participated in the bonfire party organized by the mengbanalasi art group. The host was very passionate, experienced, artistic and interesting, and had strong organization and coordination ability Great courage. Under his orderly organization and command, thousands of tourists and dozens of actors gathered around the red bonfire and danced more than ten kinds of Dai dance accompanied by gongs and drums. When the sound of gongs and drums recedes and the melodious and cheerful music sounds, suddenly the water is in full bloom, and the falling water falls from the sky. I still wet my whole body by running and jumping, and still wet my whole body. You can chase and splash water with a basin of water. That kind of emotion, that kind of jubilation, that kind of warm scene is really like the tide of the sea, regardless of the old and young, and men and women to put in, this kind of happy scene of the unity of all people is a rare experience in life. Water sprinkling Festival is a happy activity held by Dai people in the new year's day. It is usually held around April in the new calendar. It aims to wash away the old dust and evil and usher in a new life, hope and good luck. Premier Zhou Enlai and vice premier Chen Yi attended the Jinghong Water Splashing Festival on their way home after attending the Bandung Conference in Indonesia, and were warmly welcomed by the people. If you have not personally participated in the song and dance and water splashing festival of the Dai people, you will not experience the true feelings of the Dai people who are good at singing and dancing and bold and forthright.
The combination of public participation in interactive activities and fine art appreciation is a symbol of Dai tourism maturity and scientific tourism.
As soon as the bonfire party is over, people can enter the art palace to watch the professional performance of the art troupe. Mengbanalasi troupe is well-known in China, with a strong cast and splendid costumes and setting. Under the guidance of the opening of the super song and dance show, the audience was introduced into the art feast of "Banna charm, peacock auspiciousness, water splashing and singing, holy festival blessing and spring water of a river". Song and dance present Xishuangbanna's long history, people's life and customs, and the modern development of Xishuangbanna. The content and form of the program give people a healthy and upward spiritual atmosphere, which can be said to give people the enjoyment of artistic beauty, and give people a strong shock of artistic height and appeal.
The night wind is blowing slowly in the swaying palm trees, shops are in the lights, customers are crowded, and pedestrians are bustling in the spacious streets. On the way to the hotel, I want to see the beautiful night scene of Jinghong and experience the harmonious and happy life of ethnic brothers in the hundred flowers garden of the motherland. Jinghong's night is so beautiful that I have many associations. The beautiful night of the Mongolian prairie once let my heart gallop boldly, the hazy night of the northwest mountain gorge let my heart strong and stirring. Now, the quiet and colorful night in Jinghong makes my heart feel the satisfaction and pride of peace, happiness and peace under the responsibility of soldiers to protect the country.
A few days of travel life, a few days of contact with the local minority people, let me closer feelings, into the local customs. When talking about Xishuangbanna, I'm naturally as proud as the local people that it's called "Banna" or something. "Banna", how close, beautiful, simple name, in my heart is a beautiful red glow. Floating in the southwest border, floating in the south of colorful clouds, always radiate charming light.
2010.11.18
Revised on November 28, 2020！
Zhu Yuncai, a native of Jiangjin District, Chongqing. Members of the Communist Party of China. He graduated from the medical department of Qinghai Medical College, the hospital management department of Shanghai Second Military Medical University, the Graduate Department of the Fourth Military Medical University, and EMBA of Renmin University of China. He has successively held the posts of health officer, physician, attending physician, deputy chief physician, chief physician, director of internal medicine, director of medical department, President, etc., and has been awarded the military rank of grand Academy. Member of Chinese Medical Association and Chinese Medical Association. Member of Gansu Writers Association. Vice president of China Majiayao Culture Research Association. In the late 1990s, he began to write literature and published more than one million words of literary works in many domestic newspapers and publishing houses. He has published poetry and prose anthologies, such as Suiyin collection, Xingyun LIUCai, shengshifeige, zoumaxingyin, etc.
[editor's introduction] Wang shibaiyu, whose characters are Biyu and shibaiyu, is known as the king of shrimp in contemporary China. Born in Jiangsu Province, university culture, in 1990, he entered the correspondence university of Chinese painting and calligraphy. He learned from Mr. Chen xueci and was good at landscape, flowers and birds. He studied painting when he was a child. Now he is mainly engaged in painting shrimp. He has been painting shrimp for nearly 40 years. His works have won many awards in the exhibition. His works have been collected by many calligraphy and painting lovers at home and abroad, and have a high reputation. At present, he is the editorial board member of urban headlines, chief editor of Beijing Tianjin Shanghai headlines, member of new level united calligraphy and painting academy, counsellor of imitative ancient style new poetry, member of Lianyungang Artists Association and liberal poet.
